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正当本届康泰纳仕国际奢侈品会议的与会者们针对大会主题“正念奢侈品”（Mindful Luxury）展开思考之时，印度版Vogue特约编辑Bandana Tewari走上演讲台，将动人心魄的内容娓娓道来，震撼了所有听众的内心。她的故事是关于圣雄甘地以及他是如何将服装作为传达思想的媒介。

印度版Vogue特约编辑Bandana Tewari在康泰纳仕国际奢侈品会议上与Suzy Menkes相互致意图片来源：INDIGITAL.TV正当本届康泰纳仕国际奢侈品会议的与会者们针对大会主题“正念奢侈品”（Mindful Luxury）展开思考之时，印度版Vogue特约编辑Bandana Tewari走上演讲台，将动人心魄的内容娓娓道来，震撼了所有听众的内心。她的故事是关于圣雄甘地以及他是如何将服装作为传达思想的媒介。“甘地与服装的关系意义深远，”Tewari说道。“纵观整个政治史，我尚未找到其他例子能够在政治与服装之间建立起如此关系。”从早年在英国留学期间刻意模仿英国花花公子的打扮开始，到后来在南非发现自己遭遇种族排挤与虐待（在南非他直面愚昧追寻真理，并开始对自给自足的生活方式感兴趣，“支持国货运动”（Swadeshi）由是诞生），再到回到印度后开始领导支持印度手工土棉布的“Khadi”运动，并“请求国民焚烧所有大工厂生产的服装并自己制作衣服，以此率领整个国家联合起来进行抵抗”，在甘地的整个人生哲学中，服装伴随始终，Tewari如是说。“在他内心追求真理的过程中，服装一直处在核心地位，”Tewari继续说道。“从穿上长袍到脱去长袍的过程中，他实践并发展出了一套原则……但这要如何被正念奢侈品时装企业运用起来？”根据Tewari的观点，答案就是要对手工艺人的工作给予回报和感谢，而不是以“手工制造”作为卖点提升售价，却对其出处不闻不问。“在印度，每天有大约110万人在制造美丽的手工艺品，整个丝绸之路上人数就更加众多。如果你不赋予他们应得的权利、给他们发挥创造力的机会，我们将会同时失去商业机会与手工技艺。我们已经把全世界手工匠人的权益都遗忘了，而这些人才是真正为你们的品牌缔造最美丽产品的人，”Tewari对全体与会者说道，其中不乏许多奢侈品牌首席执行官。“你可以把人道主义精神带到品牌中来，这样便可以获得制造者、设计师以及生产商之间美丽的和谐关系：那便是将甘地精神运用到奢侈品行业的法门。”所谓“正念奢侈品”，也代表着为奢侈品行业在环境方面的影响力起立发声，Tewari引用甘地的话说：“非暴力政策并不是一件可以随意穿脱的外衣，它应长存于我们的心中，且必须成为我们生命中不可或缺的一部分。”“我呼吁我们的设计师试着把思维过程放缓。做事并不在快，而是在每一分钟都过得实实在在，”她继续说道。“与某种哲学思想建立联系非常重要，让我们身负某种责任，采取道德的行事方针。如今每年都会诞生一亿五千万件服装。其中每年就有二十件新衣服是为你、为我、为这个地球而生，所以或许我们应该重新回顾一下甘地在七十五年前说过的话：‘这个世界已经为每个人准备了足够多的东西，但仍不够满足每个人的贪念。’”当Tewari演讲完毕躬身致谢时，在场的人几乎全都明白甘地的教诲与奢侈品领域之间的关系了。Bandana Tewari, Editor-at-Large of Vogue India, is greeted on stage by Suzy Menkes at the CNI Luxury Conference in OmanInDigital.TVAs conference delegates contemplate “Mindful Luxury”, the theme of this year’s Condé Nast International Luxury Conference, Bandana Tewari, Editor-at-Large of Vogue India, struck a humbling note as she took to the lectern, fascinating the room with the mesmerising tale of Mahatma Gandhi and the examples he set through the medium of clothes.“Gandhi’s relationship with clothes was profound,” Tewari said. “There is no other example I could find in the history of politics that raises such an analogy between politics and clothing.”From his early days in the UK as a student, imitating a young English dandy, to finding himself racially profiled and abused in South Africa (where his quest for truth in the face of ignorance and interest in self-sufficiency - “Swadeshi” - began), to returning to India to lead the Khadi (handmade cotton) movement, when “he asked the country to burn all factory-made clothes and make their own clothes, bringing the entire country together in protest”, clothing was integral to Gandhi’s philosophy, Tewari explained.“Clothing was a central part of his inner quest for truth,” continued Tewari. “In robing and disrobing he developed practices and principles - but how should they be applied to luxury fashion companies with mindfulness?”The answer lies in crediting the craftsman, according to Tewari, and no longer basking in the glory of a “handmade” price tag without asking where it comes from.“We have approximately 11 million people who make beautiful things by hand every day – and more along the silk route. If you don’t empower them and give them the chance to create, we will lose these trades and skills. We have forgotten to give credit to the craftspeople of the world, who create the most beautiful products for the brands that you own,” Tewari told the delegates, which comprised many a luxury CEO. “You can bring humanity into what could become a beautiful harmony between the creator, the designer and the producer – that would be a Gandhian approach to luxury.”“Mindful Luxury” is also about standing up for the impact that the luxury industry has on the environment, Tewari said, quoting Ghandi: “Non-violence is not a garment to be put on and off at will, its seat lies in our heart and must be an inseparable part of our being.”“I would like to call on designers to be slow thinkers, it’s not about the speed of doing things, it’s about authenticity and time,” she continued. “Connecting to a philosophy is critical, to hold ourselves to a responsibility, to adopt an ethical policy. Today, 150 million garments are made every year. There are 20 new garments [each] for you, and me, and the planet every year, so maybe we should revisit what Gandhi said three quarters of a century ago: ‘The world has enough for everyone’s needs but not for everyone’s greed.’”Few were left in doubt of how pertinent his teachings are to the luxury landscape as Tewari took her bow.推荐VOGUE